The expedition 1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition

1 expedition

1.1 walk-in , base camp
1.2 khumbu icefall
1.3 western cwm
1.4 ascent of southwest face
1.5 climbing rock band
1.6 summit attempts

1.6.1 haston , scott
1.6.2 boardman, boysen, burke , pertemba


1.7 clearing mountain

the expedition

approach march, kathmandu base camp

two 16-tonne trucks, driven bob stoodley (transport manager team) , 3 other drivers, left london on 9 april 1975 , gear driven kathmandu flown lukla airstrip , carried porters khunde, near namche bazaar, arrived storage on 10 june. climbers departed britain on 29 july.

walk-in , base camp

later stages of approach march

the main team flew london kathmandu used landrovers far end of road @ lamosanghu (near pagretar). walk-in kathmandu relaxed matter because no porter train needed gear. 2 parties travelled separately day or apart not place strain on villages en route. stopping chang @ each village, each day s walk not strenuous , there time acclimatise. weather hot , humid (the monsoon still on) , first party took 2 august until 18 august reach khunde , had reached base camp 23 august. trek route runs west east whereas rivers flow south journey involves crossing several ridges , descending valleys. route still used trekking forty years later – although there road penetrates far east jiri not reach way khumbu. @ kharikola (near jubing) direction of travel changes north valley of dudh kosi river , here scenery changes valley becomes deep high mountains on both sides , path starts become steeper. @ thyangboche met lama receive blessing , whole ceremony repeated outside benefit of television cameras.

porters, of them women, carried baggage khunde past lobuche , gorak shep base camp , @ stage 1 of porters died. young boy had been on 1972 expedition , doug scott in particular had taken under wing. deaf , dumb , when went missing search parties had no hope of hearing calls help. found dead in stream below base camp.

khumbu icefall


khumbu icefall (centre) , glacier descending western cwm, hidden behind nuptse (right). everest s summit , southwest face above cwm. between , below summit of everest , south summit lies upper snowfield vertical cliffs of rock band beneath it. (october 2005.)

base camp established on 22 august , on next few days more equipment , food brought there while route being reconnoitred through khumbu icefall conditions in ice seemed unusually benign. weather favourable cold mornings reducing risk of ice seracs collapsing , dangerous avalanches. snow falling in afternoons , heavy (18 inches (0.5 m) in afternoon). monsoon not yet on there severe avalanche risk everest s west ridge , nuptse careful route had chosen between base camp , icefall. original route taken lead climbers changed when highly experienced icefall sirdar, phurkipa, considered passed close foot of lho la , western shoulder.

work in icefall start in hours of morning route roped along safe line possible. later in day conditions become hot that work had stop not safety reasons because conditions became stifling. ladders placed on crevasses , additional ones had procured khunde many being used. boysen had been delayed in previous expedition , joined party during time. on 28 august camp 1 set @ top of icefall , on day sixty-eight people moving through consolidate route , supply camp. camp on reasonably flat area of ice , surrounded crevasses swallow biggest avalanches in vicinity. ice block inevitably moving down glacier , give problems later.

original ballachulish bridge in scotland, march 1975

immediately above camp 1 , before western cwm proper, immense crevasse stretched right across valley. under macinnes direction 42-foot (13 m) ladder of 6-foot (1.8 m) sections constructed, braced, , installed bridge gap. nicknamed ballachulish bridge after bridge completed near macinnes home in scotland.

the sunday times correspondent unwilling show reports before dispatching them , team became antagonistic towards him. although bonington publicly supported richardson, bonongton s own opinion material have been made available comment while still letting journalist have final word. become crisis richardson developed pulmonary oedema on 29 august , required emergency evacuation base camp pheriche leading bbc s ralling taking on role of news reporter. in case of television journalism, few aspects agreed subject veto climbers, in particular use of bonington s tape-recorded diary voice-over film, documentary makers not allowed report wanted to. scott and, especially, haston had been disdainful film give true impression of climbing time went rapport television crew developed. ralling , colleagues full members of expedition , gave potential problems on maintaining editorial independence although ralling considered in event worked out well.

western cwm

it took 3 days haston , scott prospect route head of western cwm. lower region criss-crossed crevasses, , more difficult in 1972. proved impossible keep middle of valley , had pass close foot of nuptse. despite further supplies of ladders, there still shortage , ones salvaged abandoned previous expeditions. on 31 august site camp 2 identified further cwm in 1972 and, being on slight hill, seemed safer avalanches. @ shorter distance foot of face and, indeed, possible new route face presented starting beside camp site , by-passing previous expeditions camps 3 , 4.

with 150 loads dumped @ camp 1, bonington moved base there on 1 september view going forward inspect location of camp 2 , established advanced base camp (abc) on 2 september @ height of 6,600 metres (21,700 ft). attracted newly proposed route face uncertain of right decision (the routes shown in red on diagram below), bonington spent night @ abc burke , scott. estcourt had not been @ in favour of new line because seemed in path of avalanches. following day brought poor visibility face not inspected , avalanches rumbled continuously. 5 september decision taken against new route after had indeed been swept quite major avalanches.

ascent of southwest face

the climbing route of 1975 expedition. upper part of route without fixed ropes dotted red , route proposed haston , scott dashed red.

from bergschrund @ foot of southwest face, mountain slopes @ steady angle of 45°. fixed ropes set here 1,700-metre (5,500 ft) vertical height, not far below south summit. camp 3 @ 7,000 metres (23,000 ft) before. positioning of camp 4 reconsidered because had in earlier years been in exposed location. bonington had idea of trying find safer location @ lower height. climbers advanced base camp had required 2 days reach camp 4 had needed sleep @ camp 3. on other hand, sherpas straight abc camp 4 needed next day rest. lowering camp 4 7,300 metres (24,000 ft), camp 3 by-passed , sherpas manage 1 rest day in three. everyone, importantly pertemba, supported idea. estcourt , braithwaite had been making route higher face , braithwaite had commented on 1 particular place being suitable camp although @ time had considered @ low elevation. became location selected , camp 5 lowered 7,800 metres (25,500 ft). bonington left considerable task of recalculating logistics.

when @ last able start true climbing, boysen moved lyric poetry. wrote morning magically beautiful, cwm swathed in boiling mists. everest in dark blue shadow, nuptse emerging diamond white, hundred ice crests gleaming .

macinnes, boardman , boysen established camp 4 on 11 september. on face heat in afternoon become oppressive, reducing rate of climb. point on starting using oxygen when climbing face. avalanches swept camp 4 , great central gully above – macinnes struck and, although not swept away or buried, snow powder entered lungs have lasting effect.

on 14 september macinnes had descend abc when start made towards camp 5. haston tried find site suitable camp on left side of central gully area seemed might in avalanche zone. instead found location on right-hand side protected ledges. when haston alone @ camp 4 night-time avalanche struck , vacant box tent damaged. however, structure had been strong bonington thought inside have survived.

bonington had decide should make route camp 5, below rock band. wanted save strongest climbers scaling rock band , summit attempt. macinnes incapacitated , fyffe had not acclimatised well. bonington had intended stay 1 camp down lead able keep overview without getting tangled in tactical decisions in spite of decided himself go in front camp 5 richards in support. sherpas stay @ camp 4 four days @ time while making 3 carries , return abc 2 days rest. on 17 september bonington, richards , team of sherpas occupied camp 5 had 4 box tents. after sherpas had set off down bonington discovered had left behind cooking pan , radio had stopped transmitting. use corned-beef tin melt snow cooking , drinking , produced tiny quantities of water. unable summon or provide leadership. after few hours richards found workround transmitter problem , next day climbed towards rock band, still without adequate water. @ height sherpas still did not need oxygen 2 climbers needing 3 bottles day, 2 climbing , 1 sleeping. bonington led towards left-hand gully had backtrack after choosing poor line. next day scott , burke joined them @ camp 5 , 4 started fixing ropes on 19 september route consolidated foot of rock band. things ahead of schedule.

climbing rock band

upper southwest face. between , below summit of everest , south summit lies upper snowfield vertical cliffs of rock band beneath it. great central gully hidden until descends lower right.

braithwaite , estcourt had ascended camp 5 supply situation adequate. bonington contemplating summit attempt haston , scott, asked haston climb abc camp 5 on next 2 days – scott @ 5. asked estcourt , braithwaite attempt rock band, supported burke , himself. rule them out of first summit attempt told them in second attempt. rock band had defeated previous expeditions. consists of vertical cliffs little snow or ice whereas lower part of face angled @ 45 60 degrees , snow-covered.

the route across rock band lay in narrow gully , estcourt , braithwaite alternated in lead burke , bonington in support carrying rope line being fixed in place. snow crampons , estcourt described climb scottish grade iii although disregarded difficulty of climb @ 8,200 metres (27,000 ft). both climbers oxygen ran out reaching ramp led off right gully. braithwaite exhaused, estcourt led ramp narrowed forced against wall thin snow hardly covering loose rock , suitable piton. reached place jam in precarious piton , scrambled 6 metres (20 ft) found safe place belay. estcourt described hardest pitch have ever led there short climb snowfield above rock band. lord hunt wrote –

but think members of party concede (with exception of person allude to) supreme example of climbing technique, applied exceptional determination, nick estcourt s superb lead, without normal safeguards or oxygen @ 27,000 feet, rickety outward-leaning ramp of snow-covered rubble led gully in rock band upper snow field. must 1 of greatest leads in climbing history, comparable, @ least in psychological effect, original lead across hinterstösser traverse or exit gully above spider, on north face of eiger.

summit attempts

the original plan had been 1 team lay fixed rope above camp 6 @ top of rock band , second team go summit. bonington decided unreasonable expect first team turn near summit , 1 team work though meant long summit climb after heavy day laying ropes , second night @ camp 6. however, progress had been 2 further summit teams might possible and, careful planning, these might comprise 4 climbers each rather two. bonington had promised place sherpa in subsequent attempt. selected (1) haston , scott, (2) boardman, boysen, burke , pertemba (who, bonington s satisfaction, nominated himself) , (3) ang phurba, bonington, braithwaite , estcourt. estcourt , braithwaite return temporarily abc, losing second place in queue summit, , contrary had been promised earlier. burke had been climbing bonington considered have been due weight of camera equipment , realised value of having filming high on mountain. regarding own place, bonington himself had been @ 7,800 metres (25,500 ft) , above fortnight team doctor clarke privately advised him not continue higher. bonington accepted opinion , gave place richards though still cherished hope himself might in fourth summit bid. macinnes had moved camp 1 because of reports platform of ice on starting slip down icefall. when heard left out of summit parties left expedition because there nothing further him assured bonington tell press leaving because of injured lungs.

haston , scott

haston , scott supported thompson, burke, bonington, ang phurba , pertemba set off on 22 september set camp 6 @ 8,320 metres (27,300 ft) beyond point reached previously. support team returned camp 5 leaving haston , scott excavate place assault box. following day, bonington dropped abc, pair fixed 460 metres (1,500 ft) of rope on line of traverse of snowfield towards gully leading southeast ridge. proved difficult because soft snow lay on rock , there little ice crampons grip. when rope had been fixed returned camp 6. tent sack (but no tent or sleeping bags), 2 oxygen cylinders each, 3 50-metre (160 ft) ropes between them, stove , other gear set off @ 03:30 next morning.

from advanced base camp bbc cameras , many of expedition able watch progress. large powder avalanche swept past 2 climbers visible naked eye traversed upper snowfield. vanished south summit gully , @ 15:00 momentarily reappeared on south summit itself. disappeared on ridge china occasional puffs of snow above ridge showed watchers still climbing despite being late afternoon. light faded climbers seen still moving ridge. bonington radioed second team prepare set out next morning – not know whether making summit bid or rescue attempt.

it had been @ dawn, after had got beyond fixed rope, haston s oxygen had failed. able clear blockage of ice delayed them hour. climbing route ridge @ south summit gully @ times through chest-deep snow in avalanche conditions @ angle of 60° , no possibility of belays. @ rock step in gully left fixed rope , @ last after 11½ hours reached south summit started digging snow cave , brewing tea while thought whether bivouac. tea merely describe time of day because there no food , nothing put warmed water. haston tested conditions on ridge , decided seize opportunity go on.

the hillary step climbed , pair reached summit of mount everest @ 18:00, 24 september 1975. wind had dropped , setting sun broke through between clouds. view magnificent , tried identify of mountains , glaciers out across himalaya. after hour, , half hour go before dark, set off down hoping reach camp 6 in moonlight. left nothing on summit.

by south summit moon had not appeared, lightning flickering , wind rising. descent of gully seemed dangerous had prepare bivouac @ greatest height ever attempted, 8,760 metres (28,750 ft). 21:00 had enlarged snow cave and, oxygen cylinders exhausted , fuel in stove used midnight, spent cold night (scott estimated -50 °c) moving limbs continuously , rubbing each other keep warmth in bodies. save weight, scott had left down clothing @ camp 6. there no sleep because sleep fatal. @ time guardian described being spending night in sheet sleeping-bag in deep freeze, oxygen cut two-thirds . @ 05:30 continued descent , 09:00 on 25 september camp 6 after thirty hours without food or sleep. radioed down news. neither man had suffered frostbite. being first people summit everest southwest face, first britons reach summit route. time, had been fastest ever ascent of everest, 33 days. second summit team arrived @ camp 6 find them safe , , afternoon haston , scott had jumared down advanced base camp.

boardman, boysen, burke , pertemba

moving camp 6 burke had been climbing , late in arriving. bonington had suggested burke should retreat advanced base camp when himself had gone down burke had refused, saying feeling well. working assistant cameraman bbc , filming important him whole team. time bonington told boysen order burke down when burke reached camp able persuade bonington let him continue. following morning 4 started ascent boysen s oxygen set failed , lost crampon , had return camp. boardman , pertemba climbed burke lagging far behind. pair had reached south summit 11:00 pertemba s oxygen blocked in same way had haston s. taking advantage of fixed rope hillary step left 2 days earlier, reached summit of everest @ 13:10, 26 september. there poor visibility in wind-driven mist.

the weather deteriorated further boardman , pertemba descended , visibility getting worse. astonishment encountered burke, sitting in snow, few hundred metres summit , above hillary step. had been assuming had rejoined boysen @ camp 6. asked them return summit him photograph them but, seeing reluctance, said go himself take photographs , filming top. after agreeing wait him @ south summit separated. after wait of on 1½ hours @ south summit in blizzard conditions visibility down 3.0 metres (10 ft) , getting dark @ 16:10 pair started descend gully in storm. still had oxygen , fortunate find end of fixed ropes in dark. @ 19:30 @ last rejoined boysen @ camp 6. boardman had frostbite , pertemba, had taken on half hour crawl last 30 metres (100 ft), snowblind. mick burke did not return. boysen got frostbite while trying reduce snow piling on box tents during 36 hours stormbound before being able descend camp 5.

clearing mountain

the storm had passed 28 september , third summit team still @ camp 5. however, powder avalanches coming down face , no hope of finding burke, expedition called off. @ camp 5 waited boysen, boardman , pertemba , accompanied them down advanced base camp on western cwm interviewed bbc. 2 days earlier camp 1 had been evacuated began slide down icefall , on 27 september people @ camp 4 had been ordered down because threatened huge amount of snow higher face. during evacuation, gordon, had been on face first time, had become stranded in dark , rescue needed mounted – bonington , rhodes located him @ 22:00 , managed return him abc @ midnight. later night avalanche devastated entire camp and, though no 1 injured, camp had abandoned. expedition base camp 30 september, kathmandu 11 october, , london on 17 october.

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