Climbing the Rock Band 1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition

upper southwest face. between , below summit of everest , south summit lies upper snowfield vertical cliffs of rock band beneath it. great central gully hidden until descends lower right.

braithwaite , estcourt had ascended camp 5 supply situation adequate. bonington contemplating summit attempt haston , scott, asked haston climb abc camp 5 on next 2 days – scott @ 5. asked estcourt , braithwaite attempt rock band, supported burke , himself. rule them out of first summit attempt told them in second attempt. rock band had defeated previous expeditions. consists of vertical cliffs little snow or ice whereas lower part of face angled @ 45 60 degrees , snow-covered.

the route across rock band lay in narrow gully , estcourt , braithwaite alternated in lead burke , bonington in support carrying rope line being fixed in place. snow crampons , estcourt described climb scottish grade iii although disregarded difficulty of climb @ 8,200 metres (27,000 ft). both climbers oxygen ran out reaching ramp led off right gully. braithwaite exhaused, estcourt led ramp narrowed forced against wall thin snow hardly covering loose rock , suitable piton. reached place jam in precarious piton , scrambled 6 metres (20 ft) found safe place belay. estcourt described hardest pitch have ever led there short climb snowfield above rock band. lord hunt wrote –

but think members of party concede (with exception of person allude to) supreme example of climbing technique, applied exceptional determination, nick estcourt s superb lead, without normal safeguards or oxygen @ 27,000 feet, rickety outward-leaning ramp of snow-covered rubble led gully in rock band upper snow field. must 1 of greatest leads in climbing history, comparable, @ least in psychological effect, original lead across hinterstösser traverse or exit gully above spider, on north face of eiger.

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